Bottom Bracked Fixed cup install

First I cleaned the spindle. This is it after removing the hard, baked-on grease.

Then I chased the threads using my Campagnolo 721 BB tap set. French threaded. Forgot to take any photos, so this is the cleaned threads when I finished.

Barnetts recommends locktite 242 (medium thread lock) for the fixed cup. Given the French drive side is a right-hand thread, and will be loosened by cycling (unlike British and Italian), this seems doubly important. I couldn't find locktite thread locker at the hardware store, but got this instead.

Used the VAR BP-03000 tool to install the BB cup. I used the tool to make it as tight as my meager strength would allow. Hopefully this and the thread-locker will suffice.

bicycle bell "ad-hoc depouse"

I think the bell is really cool on this bike.

Here it is before cleaning

Here it is after an overnight soak in Evapo-rust, and a good clean with a toothbrush, rag, and WD40

AD-HOC DEPOSE

MODELE DEPOSE

I am not going to try and polish the exterior, I like it just the way it is.

Just discovered one of these bells sold on Ebay for US $150 (more than I paid for the whole bike)

Crankset rust removal

I am getting very close to building the bike back up. First I need to remove the rust from my crankset.

Here are the products I used. I imported a 25 liter container of Evapo-Rust from Ireland, and tiped about 5 liters into the bucket shown. The crankset went into the bucket overnight.

The next morning I removed the crankset and it looked pretty black and ugly. I then dried it off with a rag and doused it in WD40. I then scrubbed the wet-with-WD40 crankset with 00 grade steal wool, and it came out looking pretty good. Then I painted on Rustol to hopefully prevent rust from reforming.

Before

After

Here is a closeup where you can see the pitting, but at least the rust is gone.

Frame Cleaning

I had thought the frame was pretty clean, but on closer inspection......

So, out with the Muc-off and tooth brushes

A bit of elbow grease and it looked much better

The Chainstays were very rough though

 After it was clean, I used the french method of Steel wool and metal polish (Belgom ALU) to smooth out the chainstays a bit.

I then applied Pre-lim Surface Cleaner, and then 3 coats of Renaissance wax polish Its looking pretty good now.

Frame repair

I got the frame back from my contact at Tonton forums and am very happy with the repair work.

Add caption

Frame picked up some more "jus" from the work though.

Greasing derailleur pulleys

I wanted to get grease into the pulleys on the derailleur from my BGA velectrik

I Was able to dissasemble the small pulley by using unscrewing the cones, using a large screwdriver on one side to hold them, and using the points of a pair of large Ikea scissors to turn the other side.

Hers are the parts after being soaked in white spirits and cleaned.

TIP: don't leave parts in white spirits too long. They go rusty. I left these in for a few days, and had to clean the rust off afterwards (I was going to replace the bearings anyway)

 Below is the pulley with the cone from one side in, and packed with bearings and Morningstar feehub soup grease.

Challenge: Where does the washer go? The picture above shows a small copper-colored split-ring washer that came out of the pulley. I cannot figure where/why to put it back in. It seems strange to put it in on one side only; and it seems like it would only interfear with the action of the bearings/cones. I have left it out.

 Here is the pully packed with grease again.















 Below are the 2 faces of the larger pulley

Challenge: How to dissasemble this pulley?  I could isolate the face of the pulley on one side, and turn the face on the other side, but it just rotated, and did not screw off. I think they must be pressed in. I did not want to risk destroying it by levering it out.

 My solution was to spray penetrating grease around the sides of the pulley. This actually seemed to get some grease in there. I didn't put the pulley in solvent before regreasing it... perhaps that was a mistake?

Rack repair needed.

I am still trying to find someone who can do a good job repairing the rear rack.

I have a private message on TonTon Forums asking for pictures of the damage, so I am posting them here.

problem with derailleur lever/rod connection

My problem is that there does not seem to be any way to secure the connection between the lever and the bolt shown in the bottom of this picture

Here is the bolt in question. I removed it from the lever via the brass nut. As I recall, it took a fair bit of force (by hand only) to twist  the bolt assembly off the rod. At the time of removal I did not think about how exactly it was attached.

Here is the cleaned up bolt assembly. It now slides up and down the rod, and I do not think the derailleur will work unless I can secure it to the rod.

I posted a request for assistance and a link to this posting on the comments section of the Bicycle Specialties blog post that mentions working on one of these bikes.

UPDATE - It turns out that this bolt is not one piece as I thought, but that it works just like any fender bolt, in that the nut pushes the washer onto the rod. Problem solved.

Reassembling the rear derailleur

To remove the rust, I left the rod and the spring assembly soaking in a solution of oxalic acid overnight. In the morning I removed them and gave the a quick flush in a swimming pool PH+. There were also some rusty bolts soaking in a jam jar of oxaic acid.

all the parts ready for reassembly

I am not sure how to lubricate these pullys. They sound dry and gritty. predictably, I was not able to get any of this grease to the bearings.

I might try the actions described in this thread to clean the pullys above (I posted a question to this thread asking if this was a good idea); 
Also this link has good information on lubricating freewheels

The spring and rod cleaned up OK. The spring still looks dirty, but I have scrubed and soaked as much as I want to.

The metal parts are stained, but they are clean now. I greased the interface between the hanger and the derailleur mount, and the diagional sliding section is now very smooth.

I had a lot of trouble removing the two bolts that go in the "eyes" of the pully wheel. The screw slot is not deep and the scrow driver slipped. Even now the bolt does not thread nicely. So I decided to replace them. After 1 trip to town where all the shops we closed for the customary french 2 hour lunch brake, I returned and picked these up.

The reassembled mechanism

The other side of the reassembled mechanism

I wish I had taken more notice of this section when dissasembling. It seems the pully cage is pulled back by the spring until it touches the rod; this acts as a stop.

Dissasembling and cleaning rear derailleur (part 2)

August 5 2013

Cleaned lots of the parts shown in these photos in white spirits.

The rod and spring are soaking in oxalic acid overnight.

Removed derailleur hanger from linkage strut

Starting to clean derailleur wheel

Cleaned

Leading edge of strut mounting bolt is at 10mm. Leading edge of spring mounting bolt is at 111mm. Mounting bolts are at 180 degrees from each other

spring mounting bolt detail. This was very hard to remove, even with lots of WD40. Was difficult to turn all the way to the end.

Lever mounting bolt detail

Lever mounting bolt removed.