BGA Velectrik deraileur mechanism

I have cleaned, greased, reassembled, and mounted the deraileur. Here are some videos of how the BGA deraileur works.

The first video shows the whole bike, and the entire deraileur mechanism

The second video is a closeup of the main pivot

And the third video is of the main deraileur mechanism itself

Left Pedel reassembly

The pedal soaked in a bucket of evapo-rust overnight.

Here are the parts out of the evapo-rust after a quick wipe down. (the other pedal is in the background)

 This is the cone on the pedal. You can see a hole in the race, and part of the race actually seems to have dissappeared. (I also found what looked like 1/2 a ball bearing when I dis-assembled it). I went to 2 bike stores to try and find a replacement but no luck. I did get a lead on a place about an hours drive away that recycles old parts, so I will try that later this week.

 Repacked using new 5/32" ball bearings.

and lots of grease

before the top layer of grease was added.

finished left pedal next to the right pedal (which is in the evapo-rust bucket now)

right pedal 

finished left pedal

Reinstalling the bottom bracket.

1/4 inch bearings required

The adjustable cup and lockring before cleaning and repacking

After cleaning

First layer of grease with 11 1/4 inch ball bearings packed in.

Another layer of grease on top

Drive side of spindle (I hope, this side was a little longer) with a layer of grease and the 11 1/4 inch bearings packed in 

Another layer of grease on top

Adjusting the adjustable cup was difficult because;
1. it has wrench flats instead of pin holes
2. the wrench flats are too large for any non-adjuctable wrench I own
3. the lockring notches are too small for any lockring tool i own.

The wrench flats are 1 1/8 inch (28.575mm). I ended up using an adjustable wrench, and since this is not put on tight at all, it worked fine.

After a lot of searching and trial and error, I found this VAR - 78 tool worked very well on the knurled edge of the lockring.

I haven't fully inserted the cotter pins yet, but wanted to see it look a bit more like a bike. Quite please with how the chainring/cranks have cleaned up with the evapo-rust. (the cotter pin nut and washer are in there now)

Bottom Bracked Fixed cup install

First I cleaned the spindle. This is it after removing the hard, baked-on grease.

Then I chased the threads using my Campagnolo 721 BB tap set. French threaded. Forgot to take any photos, so this is the cleaned threads when I finished.

Barnetts recommends locktite 242 (medium thread lock) for the fixed cup. Given the French drive side is a right-hand thread, and will be loosened by cycling (unlike British and Italian), this seems doubly important. I couldn't find locktite thread locker at the hardware store, but got this instead.

Used the VAR BP-03000 tool to install the BB cup. I used the tool to make it as tight as my meager strength would allow. Hopefully this and the thread-locker will suffice.

bicycle bell "ad-hoc depouse"

I think the bell is really cool on this bike.

Here it is before cleaning

Here it is after an overnight soak in Evapo-rust, and a good clean with a toothbrush, rag, and WD40

AD-HOC DEPOSE

MODELE DEPOSE

I am not going to try and polish the exterior, I like it just the way it is.

Just discovered one of these bells sold on Ebay for US $150 (more than I paid for the whole bike)

Crankset rust removal

I am getting very close to building the bike back up. First I need to remove the rust from my crankset.

Here are the products I used. I imported a 25 liter container of Evapo-Rust from Ireland, and tiped about 5 liters into the bucket shown. The crankset went into the bucket overnight.

The next morning I removed the crankset and it looked pretty black and ugly. I then dried it off with a rag and doused it in WD40. I then scrubbed the wet-with-WD40 crankset with 00 grade steal wool, and it came out looking pretty good. Then I painted on Rustol to hopefully prevent rust from reforming.

Before

After

Here is a closeup where you can see the pitting, but at least the rust is gone.

Frame Cleaning

I had thought the frame was pretty clean, but on closer inspection......

So, out with the Muc-off and tooth brushes

A bit of elbow grease and it looked much better

The Chainstays were very rough though

 After it was clean, I used the french method of Steel wool and metal polish (Belgom ALU) to smooth out the chainstays a bit.

I then applied Pre-lim Surface Cleaner, and then 3 coats of Renaissance wax polish Its looking pretty good now.

Frame repair

I got the frame back from my contact at Tonton forums and am very happy with the repair work.

Add caption

Frame picked up some more "jus" from the work though.

Greasing derailleur pulleys

I wanted to get grease into the pulleys on the derailleur from my BGA velectrik

I Was able to dissasemble the small pulley by using unscrewing the cones, using a large screwdriver on one side to hold them, and using the points of a pair of large Ikea scissors to turn the other side.

Hers are the parts after being soaked in white spirits and cleaned.

TIP: don't leave parts in white spirits too long. They go rusty. I left these in for a few days, and had to clean the rust off afterwards (I was going to replace the bearings anyway)

 Below is the pulley with the cone from one side in, and packed with bearings and Morningstar feehub soup grease.

Challenge: Where does the washer go? The picture above shows a small copper-colored split-ring washer that came out of the pulley. I cannot figure where/why to put it back in. It seems strange to put it in on one side only; and it seems like it would only interfear with the action of the bearings/cones. I have left it out.

 Here is the pully packed with grease again.















 Below are the 2 faces of the larger pulley

Challenge: How to dissasemble this pulley?  I could isolate the face of the pulley on one side, and turn the face on the other side, but it just rotated, and did not screw off. I think they must be pressed in. I did not want to risk destroying it by levering it out.

 My solution was to spray penetrating grease around the sides of the pulley. This actually seemed to get some grease in there. I didn't put the pulley in solvent before regreasing it... perhaps that was a mistake?