hub after evapo-rust

All the rust is gone.... as is most of the chrome :)

Lots of oil applied to try and keep the rust away.

Finished dissasembling front wheel.

Front wheel

I was going to reuse the spokes and spoke nipples, but it looks like they were installed by using a too-long length, then just nipping the excess off. That is probably why I could still see some excess when I pulled the tire/tube/rim-strip off.

Another reason reuse is a bad idea is that the spokes are 1.8mm instead of 2mm and they are bent and not in good condition. In fact I had to cut one of them out because the spoke nipple seemed to have a stripped thread (probably due to a snipped spoke head not being a good fit anymore).

The hub is in the evaporust overnight. Not sure how I can cover the rim in evaporust, but I will figure something out.

Front Wheel

Well, I got a job, which has impacted my ability to work on bikes.

Now that I have settled into work a bit, and nice weather is back again, I am going to try and finish putting this bike back together.

Pulling the wheel apart

Wheel Assembly

Axel grime

Hub rust

Inside rim rust

outside rim rust

Rim strip

Spoke length (279 but spoke tension was low, and many spokes protruded into rim strip

Spoke tension (generally between 15 and 18

Tire is toast

Tire size (looks like 26 x 1 1/2 x 1 5/8 for 1 1/2 pim ???)

Wheel bearing size

Spoke size

I am still undoing all the spokes so I can completely remove the rust on the rim and hub. I was going to reuse the spokes and the nipples, but am not sure now, since the spokes are pretty bent up.

BGA Velectrik deraileur mechanism

I have cleaned, greased, reassembled, and mounted the deraileur. Here are some videos of how the BGA deraileur works.

The first video shows the whole bike, and the entire deraileur mechanism

The second video is a closeup of the main pivot

And the third video is of the main deraileur mechanism itself

Left Pedel reassembly

The pedal soaked in a bucket of evapo-rust overnight.

Here are the parts out of the evapo-rust after a quick wipe down. (the other pedal is in the background)

 This is the cone on the pedal. You can see a hole in the race, and part of the race actually seems to have dissappeared. (I also found what looked like 1/2 a ball bearing when I dis-assembled it). I went to 2 bike stores to try and find a replacement but no luck. I did get a lead on a place about an hours drive away that recycles old parts, so I will try that later this week.

 Repacked using new 5/32" ball bearings.

and lots of grease

before the top layer of grease was added.

finished left pedal next to the right pedal (which is in the evapo-rust bucket now)

right pedal 

finished left pedal

Reinstalling the bottom bracket.

1/4 inch bearings required

The adjustable cup and lockring before cleaning and repacking

After cleaning

First layer of grease with 11 1/4 inch ball bearings packed in.

Another layer of grease on top

Drive side of spindle (I hope, this side was a little longer) with a layer of grease and the 11 1/4 inch bearings packed in 

Another layer of grease on top

Adjusting the adjustable cup was difficult because;
1. it has wrench flats instead of pin holes
2. the wrench flats are too large for any non-adjuctable wrench I own
3. the lockring notches are too small for any lockring tool i own.

The wrench flats are 1 1/8 inch (28.575mm). I ended up using an adjustable wrench, and since this is not put on tight at all, it worked fine.

After a lot of searching and trial and error, I found this VAR - 78 tool worked very well on the knurled edge of the lockring.

I haven't fully inserted the cotter pins yet, but wanted to see it look a bit more like a bike. Quite please with how the chainring/cranks have cleaned up with the evapo-rust. (the cotter pin nut and washer are in there now)

Bottom Bracked Fixed cup install

First I cleaned the spindle. This is it after removing the hard, baked-on grease.

Then I chased the threads using my Campagnolo 721 BB tap set. French threaded. Forgot to take any photos, so this is the cleaned threads when I finished.

Barnetts recommends locktite 242 (medium thread lock) for the fixed cup. Given the French drive side is a right-hand thread, and will be loosened by cycling (unlike British and Italian), this seems doubly important. I couldn't find locktite thread locker at the hardware store, but got this instead.

Used the VAR BP-03000 tool to install the BB cup. I used the tool to make it as tight as my meager strength would allow. Hopefully this and the thread-locker will suffice.